Lost at Arecibo Observatory

Puerto Rico is famous for white sand beaches, world-class snorkeling, pro-surfing, rainforests...and a really big telescope? Arecibo Observatory features the world's largest radio telescope (featured in the films Contact and GoldenEye) a visit is an interesting break from the sun and surf sites of Puerto Rico. Areribo actually exceeded my expectations in a few unexpected ways. I expected Arecibo to be located deep in Puerto Rico's mountainous interior.  I expected the telescope to be big. It was the journey to Arecibo observatory and the beauty of the telescope that was much greater than I had expected.

What is a Radio Telescope? 
Before visiting Arecibo, I had some experience in radio telemetry. I worked several summers at PARI Observatory, an old NASA tracking station in North Carolina, that featured two giant 26 meter radio telescopes. Radio telescopes collect radio waves from the deepest corners to the universe. The bigger the dish, in theory, means more data can be collected. Astronomers analyze the data to better understand the universe. My time at PARI (which is tucked away in a remote part of the Blue Ridge Mountains) taught me that radio observatories need to built in areas far away from electromagnetic interference. In other words, Arecibo's remote location and ban on cell phone use is necessary. But enough science.

What to Expect 
I'm not going to lie to you; Arecibo Observatory is off the beaten path. Despite hosting thousands of tourists every year, there is no direct route to the site. The roads to the observatory are narrow, curvy, and might cause motion sickness. Despite dozens of signs to help direct us, my wife and I were never quite sure if we were on the right road (especially when we had to swerve to avoid hitting a horse hanging out on the road). Though we found our way to the observatory without major mishap, we did get lost on the way back.

At the front gate, we were directed to turn our cell phones to off/airplane mode and told to park in a lot below the visitor center. I've read complaints about the steep walk from the parking lot up to the visitor's center, but it's not difficult. Once we paid and were inside the visitors center, there were several exhibits on astronomy and radio telemetry that weren't all that interesting. Next we directed to the theater to watch a short video that explained the basic operation and history of Arecibo. The video was actually pretty cool.

Once the video was over, a guide took us out to the telescope viewing platform. The 305 meter dish must be seen in person to comprehend it's massive size. It's beauty took me by surprise. Much like other man-made wonders like the Empire State Building, St. Louis Arch, Golden Gate Bridge, and Hoover Dam, I left with Arecibo in awe.

Just the Basics

• Website: http://www.naic.edu/
• Directions: A somewhat confusing map is provided by Arecibo on this page. 
• Hours: 9am-4pm, closed most major holidays 
• Cost: Adults $10, Kids and Seniors $6 
• Advice: If you are prone to motion sickness, you might want to consider taking medication before the drive. 

Italian Alps vs. Swiss Alps

Dorf Tirol, Ialy

The Italian Alps have everything that the Swiss, French, and Austrian Alps offer; hiking, mountain huts, and breathtaking views, but at a more affordable price.  Zurich is often the most affordable airport to fly into in central Europe.  Do not be fooled.  Once you land, Switzerland is among the most expensive countries in the world for travelers.  While not exactly "budget travel," transportation, lodging, and dining are more affordable in Italy when compared to Switzerland, Austria, and France.  If you are planning a trip to the Italian Alps, there are two regions that I would consider, the Lakes and the Dolomites.

The Lakes 
The Lakes region of Italy is a picturesque meeting of the Alps, nature, and Italian culture. Lake Como and Lake Maggiore are both located only an hour north of the Milan, making them convenient get-aways.   Flights to Milan are among the most affordable in Europe, making it the Lakes an affordable way to experience the Alps. The city of Varenna is the best base to explore Lake Como, while Stresa is an excellent base for Lake Maggiore. Regardless of where you stay, be sure to take time to explore the region by ferries that serve the area.

Dolomites 

Alpe Di Siusi, Italy

The Dolomites  are saw-toothed mountains in Northwestern Italy popular with skiers and hikers alike. They are tied with New Zealand's South Island as my favorite place in the world. Located in the Tirol/Tyrol region of Italy, the area is dominated by the Austrian culture and German language. Bolzano, known as the "gateway to the Dolomites" serves as a great base to explore the region. Those who want to stay off the beaten path should also consider the charming and beautiful mountainside village of Dorf Tirol. Be sure your itinerary includes hiking in Alpe Di Siusi to fully experience the beauty the Dolomites.  

Brunnenburg Castle

Brunnenburg ruined travel for me. Not because my time there was awful--quite the contrary. Ten years ago, I took my first trip overseas as part of a college language and culture course.  After thirty hours aboard airplanes and trains, words can't accurately describe how I felt upon first seeing Brunnenburg, nestled among vineyards in the Italian Alps.  I am not exaggerating when I say it was love at first sight.  Since that moment I have searched for a place that could give me the same "travel high" as Brunnenburg, but it is not to be.  The bar was set too high.  There is not a place more beautiful than this medieval castle on the edge of Dorf Tirol, Italy.  I made a return visit to Brunnenburg with my wife this past summer.  Selfishly, I wanted to revisit the magic of the area, but I also wanted my wife to see what I had been ranting and raving about all these years.  

What to Expect

Brunnenburg Agricultural Museum

Part of what makes Brunnenburg special is that is off-the-beaten-path for most Americans. Most tourist guidebooks say nothing about the entire area.  The castle is built onto a mountainside on the outskirts of Dorf Tirol, a small village perched above the larger city of Merano, Italy.  The region (known as Tirol/Tyrol) is Austrian in culture and language, though locals will also speak Italian.  The staff of Brunnenburg speak fluent English, but most locals do not, so pack your German or Italian phrase book!  

Brunnenburg Castle itself is many things; a residence, a agricultural museum and zoo, a classroom for college students, and a functioning vineyard.  It is the former residence of American poet Ezra Pound, whose family still own and operate the castle.  Brunnenburg is only open to the public (April-October) as an agricultural museum.  Even if you are not interested in the history of agriculture, Brunnenburg should still visited to experience it's beauty and charm.  If you take time to explore the nooks and crannies of the castle, you'll discover several ledges and windows with breathtaking views of the mountains and valley. The staff works hard to personalize the experience for visitors.  My wife and I chatted with staff for nearly an hour about the castle, wine, and hiking trails of the area.

View from Brunnenburg

My second visit to Brunnenburg only confirmed my belief that there is something magic about the castle and region.  Despite the language barrier, my wife and I felt strangely at home in Dorf Tirol.  The welcoming attitude of locals, laid-back culture, and beauty combine to make it impossible not to fall in love with Brunnenburg and Dorf Tirol. 

Just the Basics

• Cost:  3 EURO
• Hours of Operation: Sunday-Thursday 10am-5pm, April-October
• Resources:  http://www.dorf-tirol.it/en/tte8-Brunnenburg
• Advice: You may be able to purchase a bottle of wine made from castle's vinyard--ask the staff!

Devil's Courthouse Overlook

View from Devil's Courthouse, Blue Ridge Parkway

Towering 5,720 feet over North Carolina's Appalachian Mountains, Devil's Courthouse is one of the best overlooks on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Devil's Courthouse earned it's name based on it's evil appearance.  Legend also holds that the Devil does business in a cave beneath.  It is located in the Pigsah National Forest, an often over-looked gem of North Carolina teaming with waterfalls, hiking trails, and mountain streams.  Devil's Courthouse is located only an hour's drive from Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  


What to Expect

Devil's Courthouse

Devils's Courthouse is located 10 miles from Brevard and 28 miles from Asheville.  Driving from Brevard, you would take either Highway 215 or HiWghway 276, both of which are slow and curvy mountain roads.  From Asheville, you can take the Blue Ridge Parkway direct to Devil's Courthouse. However, the Blue Ridge Parkway has a speed limit of  45 mph. Whatever route you choose, bank extra time to enjoy the drive and take in the scenery.   I would suggest pair Devil's Courthouse with a visit to Looking Glass Falls or Living Waters Waterfalls. 

Once you have parked in the lot set aside for Courthouse visitors, it is a steep fifteen to twenty minute hike to the summit.  The top portion of the trail is not paved, so consider weather conditions when planning your visit.  The hike is well worth the reward.  The lookout offers a 360 degree view above the Appalachian Mountains.  On a clear day, one can view well into South Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee.  Bring a camera and take it all in.

Above North Carolina at Devi's Courthouse

Treble Cone Resort New Zealand

Slopes of Treble Cone New Zealand

By exploring New Zealand during the American summer, I took part in snow sports.  Compared to my native Minnesota, New Zealand is actually quite temperate, without the extreme temperature swings of Minnesota Winters.  However, the mountains of both the North and South Island of New Zealand offer several ski resorts.  I chose to ski Treble Cone , on the South Island near Wanaka because it offered the most challenging terrain. 

What to Expect

Treble Cone has a reputation as New Zealand's best resort for experienced skiers and snowboarders.  Treble Cone is the training site for the Canadian Ski Team from July to September.  Though there are a few easier slopes, I would not recommend Treble Cone for people new to skiing or snowboarding.

The size of the resort does not compare to the those of the Rocky Mountains.  There are only two chair lifts at Treble Cone.  However, the terrain is just as challenging and snow conditions are excellent.  I spent three days at Treble Cone, and honestly, could have spent a week without getting board.   The longest run is 3km.  Experts have the option of hiking to the summit to add to the adventure. 

Just the Basics 

• Cost: $99NZ for a one-day pass, $365NZ for a three-day pass.  There are discounts for senior, youth, and student passes. 
• Location: 35 minute drive from Wanaka, New Zealand 
• Rentals:$47NZ--save money by renting from a local ski store
• Ski Season: Late June to early October
• Advice: Book accommodation early-Wanaka fills up quickly during the ski season
• Website: http://www.treblecone.com/

Take the time to stay and explore Wanaka if you ski Treble Cone

Hiking and Swimming the Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier New Zealand

One of my favorite (there are many) experiences in New Zealand was hiking the Franz Josef Glacier, on the the country's South Island. It is one of the few glaciers in the world that is advancing, rather than receding.  Visitors can explore the glacier through hiking, ice climbing, or even helicopter tours.  I chose a Franz Josef guided hiking tour to get an up-close-and-personal view of the glacier.

What to Expect
The company that led the tour I took was called Franz Josef Glacier Guides.  They offer both either a half or full day hike.  I elected for the full day tour based upon a tip from a previous hiker who said the half day tour didn't reach what he described as "the good stuff."

Upon arriving the morning of the hike, we were all given boots, waterproof jacket and over-pants, hats and mittens, and crampons.  After a brief introductory meeting, we loaded a bus and headed for the glacier.  I was surprised to discover that once the bus had dropped us off, we had over a kilometer to hike over rocky ground to just to get to the base of the glacier. The glacier is worth the effort.  

Swimming the Franz Josef Glacier

Once at the base of glacier, guides assisted us up a series of ladders until you reach the surface of the glacier.  Walking on the glacier was like being on another planet.  Living in Minnesota, I am accustomed to ice and snow, but this was different.  Never before had I been able to walk through ice tunnels, over deep crevices, and up mini ice mountains.  All through the hike, the Franz Josef guides explained the science and history behind the glacier, which enriched the whole experience. 

Near the end of the day, the guides offered us the option of swimming in a glacier pool.  We were told the plunge is a rite of passage for new glacier guides, and we had a new guide in our group.  I turned the polar plunge down, considering the hour-plus hike we still had back to the bus.  Some young British backpackers joined the guide in testing the icy waters...which helped me snap this great photo!

Just the Basics

• Cost:   Half Day-$123NZ, Full-Day $180NZ
• Website:  http://www.franzjosefglacier.com/
• Advice: Pack a lunch to eat on the hike, you'll need it.  Pack a swimsuit if you are feeling really adventurous!