Saturday, December 15, 2012

Brunnenburg Castle

Brunnenburg ruined travel for me. Not because my time there was awful--quite the contrary. Ten years ago, I took my first trip overseas as part of a college language and culture course.  After thirty hours aboard airplanes and trains, words can't accurately describe how I felt upon first seeing Brunnenburg, nestled among vineyards in the Italian Alps.  I am not exaggerating when I say it was love at first sight.  Since that moment I have searched for a place that could give me the same "travel high" as Brunnenburg, but it is not to be.  The bar was set too high.  There is not a place more beautiful than this medieval castle on the edge of Dorf Tirol, Italy.  I made a return visit to Brunnenburg with my wife this past summer.  Selfishly, I wanted to revisit the magic of the area, but I also wanted my wife to see what I had been ranting and raving about all these years.  

What to Expect

Brunnenburg Agricultural Museum
Part of what makes Brunnenburg special is that is off-the-beaten-path for most Americans. Most tourist guidebooks say nothing about the entire area.  The castle is built onto a mountainside on the outskirts of Dorf Tirol, a small village perched above the larger city of Merano, Italy.  The region (known as Tirol/Tyrol) is Austrian in culture and language, though locals will also speak Italian.  The staff of Brunnenburg speak fluent English, but most locals do not, so pack your German or Italian phrase book!  

Brunnenburg Castle itself is many things; a residence, a agricultural museum and zoo, a classroom for college students, and a functioning vineyard.  It is the former residence of American poet Ezra Pound, whose family still own and operate the castle.  Brunnenburg is only open to the public (April-October) as an agricultural museum.  Even if you are not interested in the history of agriculture, Brunnenburg should still visited to experience it's beauty and charm.  If you take time to explore the nooks and crannies of the castle, you'll discover several ledges and windows with breathtaking views of the mountains and valley. The staff works hard to personalize the experience for visitors.  My wife and I chatted with staff for nearly an hour about the castle, wine, and hiking trails of the area.
View from Brunnenburg

My second visit to Brunnenburg only confirmed my belief that there is something magic about the castle and region.  Despite the language barrier, my wife and I felt strangely at home in Dorf Tirol.  The welcoming attitude of locals, laid-back culture, and beauty combine to make it impossible not to fall in love with Brunnenburg and Dorf Tirol. 

Just the Basics
  • Cost:  3 EURO
  • Hours of Operation: Sunday-Thursday 10am-5pm, April-October
  • Resources:  http://www.dorf-tirol.it/en/tte8-Brunnenburg
  • Advice: You may be able to purchase a bottle of wine made from castle's vinyard--ask the staff!